Images via Vogue Runway
So it’s that joyous time of the year again and I’ve done my homework, so that you don’t have to. I’ve checked out every single collection at NYFW FW 2016 and listed my absolute favorites.
I’ve said it before and will say it again: New York is the most exciting city in the world for real fashion lovers. There are always fascinating things going on there every single time. It’s, without a doubt, a breeding ground for the most innovative, experimental, and cutting edge fashion and that makes it my favorite fashion city. How people dress there is a reflection of the zeitgeist and what goes on in the runway, unlike other fashion metropoli.
Think Lázaro Hernández and Jack McCollough at Proenza Schouler, Tomé, Rosie Assoulin, and Alexander Wang, who was even hired at French giant Balenciaga and whose work there was beyond amazing. Therefore, it’s no wonder that this season there were rather more surprises than disappointments (for me: Tibi, Altuzarra and Alexander Wang). Even a haute couture designer like Narcisso Rodriguez shifted away from his usual formal wear to experimental sports inspired design.
Scroll down to see my #1 favorite collection and my absolute favorite looks at NYFW FW 2016.
10. Narciso Rodríguez. Rodríguez is generally considered a garment engineer due to his razor-sharp precise tailoring. His formal wear has been sported by the likes of Michelle Obama, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Salma Hayek amongst other well-known figures. I mention the latter to give you an idea of what is normally expected from him. However, this season he took a 180° turn exhibiting highly covetable asymmetrical knitwear and skirts, relaxed silhouettes, wrap and blanket-like coats, casual day wear pieces, and even oxfords.
9. Monse. Relaxed glamour at its best. Deconstructed shirting has been the signature style and main theme of the duo since its debut collection last season. So if you’ve been wondering where the shirt reinterpretation you’ve been seeing in streeetstyle stars everywhere during the past months comes from, now you now.
There’s an ease, effortlessness, and understated sex appeal to dresses and shirts unbuttoned at the shoulder that alludes the same kind of French/Parisian allure we all yearn for. I’ll have more of that, please.
8. Rodebjer. I like to call Rodebjer’s aesthetic ‘Scandinavian minimalism with a twist’. Composed of modular, monochromatic, and minimalistic separates that can be easily mixed, matched, and layered such as cropped trousers and waistcoats that can double as dresses, there was always an element of surprise to every look. An old-fashioned fabric on a tailored piece, Victorian ruffles peeking out of layered mesh turtlenecks or on tunics were some of the unexpected details that composed otherwise minimalistic and sports inspired looks. The collection is more like modern minimalism-meets-Victorian, but, of course, the contemporary counterpart was the most dominant and present in sporty slip on on flatforms in every look.
7. Jonathan Simkhai. A dichotomy between the delicate garments and their solid structures was the main aspect at Simkhai’s collection. Inspired by architecture, particularly by Santiago Calatrava’s work, the silhouettes came in different constructions like trumpet-shapes which were embellished with delicate, exquisite lace and fringe.
6. Ji Oh. This season, the designer presented a sports luxe collection with elegant undertones in the form of faux fur details and other fabrics like mohair that gave the sporty looks a luxurious feel. Asymmetrical cuts embellished off-the-shoulder knitwear and wrapped skirts. However, the most outstanding aspect of the collection were the color contrasts and the graphic usage of bright yellow, which made it very eye-catching.
5. Rosetta Getty. Simplicity that is not so simple. The garments were almost straight-forward in this collection, but there were often elements that made them statement pieces and impeded the collection from seeming too sober and bland. Luxurious fabrics, a pop of colour here and there, and eye-catching textures adorned beautifully cut skirts. The tops, on the other hand, had more playful forms, like, for instance capes, knitwear with bell sleeves, cross neck halter and off the shoulder necklines. The top and bottom combinations always achieved a proportion play. There was some sort of nostalgic and old-fashioned elegance to the looks, but the details kept it up to date.
4. Rosie Assoulin. Assoulin is well known for her inventive and almost cartoonish silhouettes which are always a joy to watch (and must be an even greater joy to wear! Lucky Leandra). This is fearless fashion made only for those girls who are not afraid of making a statement and going bold. Really bold. Just take a look at those exaggerated ruffles and oversized outerwear and trousers. While asymmetry is a recurring theme in her designs, this time her creative waist-cinching was what mostly caught my eye.
3. Proenza Schouler. Normally, Proenza Schouler ends up being my #1. I admit I am an avid fan and a huge enthusiast of the duo’s innovative work, but this time the collection didn’t feel as cohesive and versatile as their past collections. In fact, it pales in comparison.
However, most of its details have that coolness factor that is going to be emulated by the likes of Zara and co.
2. Tome. Combining global politics, commerce, and topics like climate change with art, Ryan Lobo and Ramón Martín cite contemporary artist Barbara Kruger and the political works of Lebanese-Palestinian installation artist Mona Hatoum as their main insipirations. There were political references such as an evil all-seeing eye and art references from Louise Bourgeois, but it was all as easily wearable as a shirt.
The collection is also a sustainable capsule concept, where denim was “upcycled” from discarded Levi’s jeans and the teddy bear coats were made from shearling sourced from a Vermont farm.
But enough with the cerebral talk. Let’s talk about all the emotions this magnificent collection makes you feel, with its tasteful layering, proportion play, and monumental silhouettes. So much is going on with so little. This is what one could consider a truly ‘conscious’ collection.
1. Beaufille. If fashion can come close to architecture and monumentality, Beaufille has been making it. The Gordon sisters who are also jewelry designers (and my God, is their jewelry amazing) have a clear penchant for sculptural silhouettes and avant-garde fabrics. However, they are also very aware of what clients want to wear, which is why the collection is very real. Despite of the drama behind the exaggerated flares and the extra wide lapels on jackets, it is all very wearable. This is without a doubt, my absolute favorite collection, because it has that ‘realness’ to it, but all the avant-garde spirit I love so much about fashion.
3.1 Phillip Lim. If there’s someone whose designs can epitomize what ‘girl boss’ means, that’s Phillip Lim. Hence, this collection clearly deserves a spot in my list.
Random favorite looks:
Creatures of the Wind.