All images via Vogue
If you didn’t have the chance yet to check any Fashion Week Fall Winter 2017-2018 collections, I’ve gone through all of them so that you don’t have to and I’ve created a summary and reviews of the most cutting edge, creative, beautiful, exciting, and fascinating collections presented in New York, London, Milan, and Paris this month. Read ahead to find a Top 10 of the only collections and looks you need to know for the upcoming season.
If similarly to me, you view fashion as an art form and way to express yourself instead of it being a status symbol or limited to simply fullfilling a function, if your taste in fashion is open to the new and the avant-garde and not confined to past ideals of traditional luxury dressing as proposed by established designers such as Chanel, Hermes, Fendi, and Louis Vuitton (don’t expect any of these here, except if they ever push their boundaries), then these top 16 Fall Winter 2017-2018 collections I picked are just for you. With a strong influence of postmodernism and constantly looking forward to the future of fashion but drawing from its past, my favorite collections this season are a display of eclecticism and deconstruction.
16. Johanna Ortiz. The line’s signature ruffles, statement sleeves, glamourous silhouettes, and voluminous off-the-shoulder tops often border with kitsch, but the fact that they are tastefully crafted in nontraditional ways and in unexpected fabrics and prints such as pinstripes gives the garments a more serious tone and makes them be far away from being overly feminine and romantic, avoiding from falling into a cliché. Political statements regarding feminism and diversity were present in the collection. Furthermore, not surprisingly, the South American designer integrated elements of her native Colombia’s magical realism, folklore, and craftsmanship into the pieces.
15. Ellery. The Fall Winter 2017-2018 collection is not one of Kym Ellery’s strongest up to date and it might have to do with a noticeable turn regarding her usual monumental approach to design. Perhaps the new business aesthetic palpable through the looks in the form of tailored checked suits was due to the fact that the Australian designer moved from Sydney to the Les Marais neighbourhood in Paris last year. However, she never renounced to the majestic and voluminous architectural silhouettes characteristic of Ellery, which are still visible in some looks.
14. Rosetta Getty. Simplicity in its finest form. Minimal, architectural forms, and its emphasis on rich textures refining the silhouettes make the most seemingly simple pieces unique and outstanding. The elegant proportions with unexpected firmness and structure and the artisanal quality of materials makes the garments seem like modern sculptures.
13. Narciso Rodríguez. Rodríguez’s trademark engineered tailoring and precision is never too rigurous nor too simple and always has a twist. Ladder cutouts embellished chests and black gauze traced the armholes in dresses. The garments and ensembles can be at first glance overtly simple and too classic in shape, but in reality there is drama to them. However, this is the kind of refined, elegant, and tasteful drama that is a joy to wear.
12. Rosie Assoulin. There is absolutely no single doubt that Rosie Assoulin is a huge advocate of having fun with fashion. Even her fanciest stuff possesses a sense of humor and a cartoonish appeal. These playful yet ultra feminine shapes define her whimsical, surrealist collections. Statement shirting in the form of ruffled poplin blouses and dramatic tops are also ubiquitous in her lines. She has coined the term statement daywear and less formal eveningwear, which is what makes her clothes so versatile and wearable despite the drama. Proof of this is that her sculptural jackets and off-the-shoulder tops can be worn with both jeans or a ball skirt.
For Fall Winter 2017-2018 the designer was influenced by interiors. Couch fabrics, furnishings, cozy, homey textures like tweed, plaid, and cable-knit wool were some of these materials that were combined, balanced out, and contrasted with cleaner ones, neutral tones, and clear lines.
11. Ports 1961. The sports luxe label is always challenging itself with every new collection. The relaxed aesthetic of the line posseses a balance between easy weekend-wear and crisp workwear. Immaculate tailoring and well-cut pants are the label’s forte. Masculinity could be found throughout the whole collection, but always with some sort of lavish expression. Cozy knits, shirts with extra-long cuffs and pannels to tie and wrap, pants, knitwear, coats, and suits all come in luxurious fabrics and accurate fits and cuts.
10. Nehera. Minimal luxe with an approach to comfort can describe Nehera’s aesthetic, where traditional shapes are redefined into futuristic silhouettes. Simple garments get a new treatment by becoming reworked into boxy, voluminous shapes that are highly wearable. The collection proves that retro inspired pieces can blend with futuristic ones through immaculate tailoring and menswear as a medium to achieve it. The skeleton of the collection are neutral-hued pieces in luxe and cozy fabrics reconstructed with a fashion forward twist.
9. Maticevski. I confess I never heard of Toni Maticevski until last year, when I had the chance to discover his unique architectural style that reworks traditional silhouettes. The Australian line is known for its deconstructed aesthetic and drape cut garments crafted in feminine shapes.
This season Maticevski is all about romantic sheer layers combined with sculptural silhouettes and cinched waists, aka statement pieces that always posses some sort of fairytale-like softness to them.
8. Sid Neigum. A new label to watch which is reminiscent of Beaufille and Rosetta Getty, aka modern simplicity and monochromatic looks with sharply defined silhouettes and lightweight, fluid fabrics. The draping and knotting techniques provide this collection with a spirit of ease and playfulness.
7. Milly. There’s an air of nonchalance to Milly’s collections, but always going hand in hand with feminity and refined elegance. However, deconstructed menswear and the minimalist powerwoman (probably a political reference to the current climate in the U.S.) was a theme this season differently to others: Slouchy pantsuits and asymmetrically cut reversible men’s button downs were banded around the body for a figure-cinching but polished effect, the perfect balance between masculine and feminine. However, my favorite part about it besides the masculine-feminine duality is the layering as seen in poplin shirts with statement sleeves peeking out of sweaters, hoodies, or corset tops.
6. Burberry. Meet the new Burberry and say good-bye to the classic, traditional British heritage line, or at least part of it, that is. The label’s new asymmetrically shaped garments in luxe fabrics, sculptural volumes, juxtaposition, and pieces that went beyond their traditional proportions, shapes, and textures reigned in this collection. However, its trademark trench coat was always present. Deconstructed, summery knits are corseted and one-shoulder dresses are worn with a cool attitude and layered in unexpected ways like for instance, on top of fancy British royalty inspired lace dresses with statement sleeves.
5. Proenza Schouler. Innovation, cutting edge, and technical garments is nothing new for the label as it’s always redefining itself with every new collection. Technical knits layered over plunging chiffon slip dresses and a highly original layering concept was present throughout the whole Fall Winter 2017-2018 line: Cutout tunics or dresses layered over other cut out tunics and dresses yuxtaposing, mixing, and contrasting different materials, textures, and fabrics such as chiffon, technical fabrics, and metallics creating a very unique and multi-dimensional result.
4. A.W.A.K.E. If like me you are also a sucker for fashion forward and innovatively volumized silhouettes, then A.W.A.K.E. is one label to watch. Even though the line is known to be influenced mainly by Japanese culture, the main concept of the collection was an octopus, referenced for instance in long double-faced skirts with moving paneled attachments that are reminiscent of tentacles and in the overall fluid silhouettes.
3. Monse. Deconstructing, reconstructing, and reimagining shirting is the label’s quintessential. Out-of-the box thinking when it comes to layering pieces that are layered over or under other unexpected pieces (like for instance cut out tops, frilled necklines, and ruffled sleeves) causes an unconventional result in perfectly tailored silhouettes. Known for its twisted tailoring, this time it became shaped into feminine silhouettes by adding belts. The pieces I am mostly seriously coveting are the grey belted tweed off-the-shoulder dress and blazer.
2. Jacquemus. It’s no secret to anyone following my blog, that Jacquemus is my absolute favorite designer label and that I’ve been following it avidly and like a fan girl for years (I was even already wearing a piece from the brand 3 years ago, when it was still a relatively unknown and under the radar label and not what it is now). Why is it my absolute favorite? Because Jacquemus, while embracing fashion as art, Picasso, surrealism, the naiive and the idealistic, it still –in reality— 100% wearable and this balance is exactly the reason why one of these days he is going to break my bank account.
Instead of going for his usual Comme des Garçons influenced avant-garde shapes and cuts ‘like little kids will do’ and naive, playful deconstruction, Simon Ponte Jacquemus opted this time around for 1920’s inspiration. But don’t think that this was only limited to those cloché hats, since it was also about the menswear influences of the time: the suiting, tailoring, the large, broad, and curved shoulders which were cinched with corsets at the waist creating hourglass silhouettes and adding the female shape to the garments, aka the perfect balance between masculine and feminine.
1.Beaufille. The sculptural, monumental, and structured silhouettes and the clear lines at Beaufille are the epitome of what I like to call ‘minimal luxe with an architectural twist’. That’s right, the Chloé and Parris Gordon sisters’ designs are right after my own heart and my avid fandom of the label goes back to their first collection two years back.
Their signature style includes contrasts between masculine and feminine, minimal lines, crafty textiles, bold yet wearable silhouettes, backless tops, angular flared trousers, and wavy edges in skirts.
For Fall Winter 2017-2018, the Gordon sisters wanted to take a few risks with colors, so you find an occasional burgundy or olive combined with neutral hues. BTW, I need that olive coat in my life.