Not strangely Milan is all about the glam, the luxury, and extravagance, as Italians have a long tradition of producing leather luxury goods, products of high-quality materials, and extremely skilled artisans (hey, Italy has, after all, a boot form). While I am not a fan of the former, I must admit that Prada, D&G, and Milan’s most sumptuous labels are a joy to watch. However, the stand-outs this season in my opinion are the labels that create a combination of luxury and high-skilled craftmanship with sobriety, such as Jil Sander and Marni.
Scroll down to see my #1 collection displayed in Milan:
7. Costume National. Lots of black and lots of glossy leather are 2 reasons big enough to make a collection a favorite in my book. The glamourous punk feel was complemented by immaculate tailoring and mixing different fabrics, such as leather, silk, and even feathers.
6. Agnona. Think earth tones, thick fringed knitwear, tunics dresses over trousers, cashmere cable sweaterdresses, cape coats, and culote jumpsuits if you want a glimpse of the Agnona collection this season, all elements that make you think of leaves falling and staying warm in that time of the year where it gets really chilly.
5. Salvatore Ferragamo. Mostly known as a fashion house with a strong tradition on the lavish and the glitz, Salvatore Ferragamo has taken a new direction with a timeless, minimal, and classic feel to it, though it can’t be considered conservative. Graphic prints, lines, asymmetric patchworks, and color-blocking are the major motifs of a collection highlighting playfulness and the femenine silhouette by body hugging dresses and coats fastened with big buttons and belts. The standout pieces for me are those beautiful ponchos.
4. Gabriele Colangelo. Despite being devoid of prints and colors, yet with a pop of red here and there, Colangelo’s latest work is minimal in spirit and can pride itself of being made of the most complicated pattern-making techniques executed effortlessly. Bias-cut drapes, vertically sliced pants, asymmetrically fastened dresses, and hemed coats were complex detailing of a collection that remained simple, yet elegant.
3. Sportmax. Knotted belts cinching sculptural and structured coats, skirts, oversized sweaters, and suits is a recurring theme present here and characterized by raw fabrics and textured surfaces. Unnecessary decorative elements are nowhere to be seen, but instead a minimalistic and puristic approach focusing on shapes and proportions is what evidences a brand strongly influenced by the Céline aesthetics.
2. Jil Sander. Although the label always relies on simplicity, each garment is perfectly tailored and cut, which is what makes each piece highly covetable season after season.
The proportions are exquisite and the suits and matching pants and coats, coat dresses, longline waistcoats, create elongated shapes that exude elegance. A dialogue between femenine and masculine takes place in a collection that is decidedly womanly.
1. Marni. I considered posting all the looks, I kid you not. There’s something so magnetic about thick belts hugging an oversized menswear garment, like some sort of dichotomy of femenine and masculine reconciling in one silhouette. But the allure of the collection does not end there. Merging the minimalistic and clean and raw-cut fabrics and raw seams into a whole is just another element of uniqueness. Despite its sobriety, there is fierceness all over it coming in the form of fur, Amazonian tunics, python boots, and matching bags.