Anthony Vaccarello. This collection, which is probably my favourite, is, just like his previous one, the epitome of a sexy, secure, and empowered woman. Who can possibly resist a sensual side slit skirt?
J.W. Anderson. As a master of minimal cuts, shapes, and volumes his designs are true works of art. I love how he always plays with proportions and creates the most fascinating silhouettes. He is slowly becoming one of my favourite designers.
Céline. Does Phoebe Philo ever get it wrong? Her aesthetically pleasing designs might not be visually groundbreaking, but they have been in many ways. The impact that her vision of how today’s woman looks has had in our society is bigger than what most people could imagine. She didn’t just make out of Birkenstock a trend, she made them a way of life adapted to the needs of the postmodern woman. Her creations satisfy the necessities of a woman who works, has to raise children, and cook. She borrows from the boys, not because their clothing looks chic on their counterpart, but because – let’s face it- boys dress comfortably, yet these designs are translated into femenine silhouettes.
The luxury remains in the fabrics, cuts, and the simplicity, flirtateousness, and flow of the garments, while the practicality and wearability is everywhere.
Balenciaga. Each season, it becomes more and more apparent that Alexander Wang’s fine and well-executed work at Balenciaga is a display of the highest craftsmanship, his latest collection being no exception.
Like previously, he works his way out with simple lines, but very delicately drawn, which coheres every single ensemble and creates fine, yet futuristic silhouettes. He mixes in American sportswear with luxurious fabrics such as fur and he seems to each time feel more confident at the giant label by inserting a dose of humor when introducing shopping bags as everyday bags. Why not?
Balmain. I must confess I am a HUGE fan of Olivier Rousteing and his work at Balmain. I never tire of his signature silhouettes, yet this time there is an obvious departure from his previous collections, there is “safari” written all over it. It is still luxurious and rich, but instead of being inspired by 80’s glitz as per usual, he went for a more multicultural and natural take on fashion.
Dion Lee. The Aussie label’s second time at the runway in New York Fashion Week after debuting last season was a showcase of tailored and boxy pieces in a neutral coloured palette. It doesn’t sound convincing, but when you see it, you are sold. Dion Lee amazes every time and his work has already become one of my personal favourites.
Jil Sander. Similarly to Céline, the label’s proposal is androgyny and comfort, but with a touch of futurism and unexpected pops of colour in neutral coloured tailored suits and lots of cocoon shapes.
The Row. Who would have thought that the baby twins you saw everyday on the small screen would now be serious fashion designers? But yes, they are to be taken seriously and very, as well as their colleague, Victoria Beckham.
With every new collection they show what their talent is made up of and how they master this art.
The knits and cowl-necks are to die for and there is a certain understated elegance to this extremely comfortable-looking set of sculptures. However, the biggest appeal relies in the moulding of the softest and finest cashmere, textures, and fabrics.
The rest. I must say I wasn’t at all impressed with Isabel Marant’s collection, just like with her two previous collections, it is simply becoming too formulaic and predictable in my opinion.
Furthermore, while Alexander Wang’s high craftmansship at Balenciaga becomes more obvious with every new collection, I feel that his work at his own label has decreased in quality and artistry. That is not to say I didn’t like the futurist vibe to his new collection, but it was just not as impressive and innovative as previous ones (excepting his last collection).
On a different note, I am absolutely impressed by the undeniable genius of Gareth Pugh. Is it possible that he is the successor/heir of Alexander McQueen? It would seem like that. Either way, he is one of the most brilliant and unique designers of our times and his proposal is truly avant-garde. His designs take me back to 1920’s German Expressionism, specifically talking about The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari and at the same time they remind me of Alejandro Jodorowsky’s masterpiece “The Holy Mountain”, all mixed with science fiction and futurism. They are cinematographic, but most of all architectural. Architectural because it would seem sometimes that he has already designed buildings by how he uses, constructs, and deconstructs space in the volumes of his garments.
So which has been your favourite collection so far? And who is your favourite designer?
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